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The three stages

28 Wednesday May 2014

Posted by recipesofthingspast in Main Dish, Uncategorized

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Christina Vigil-Thompson, weenies en salsa

Sometimes my words don’t do another’s loved one and their food justice. This is one of those times. Christina Vigil-Thompson had written this very moving tribute to her grandmother. After I read it,  I printed it and pasted it in my journal. I nicknamed her writing the “three stages.” It reminded me of why I started this blog–not to wow anyone with recipes but to remind us all that food is often the story of our memories.

So here are Christina’s own words as I combine two of her writings–first ‘THE THREE STAGES’ and then the food and story of her grandmother, Arnulfa Gonzales Vigil. Her recipe is one that evokes not only her grandmother’s kitchen but the stories of her life.  These stories ensure that the third stage will never be met. Enjoy and if your eyes ‘make water’ like mine did reading this just remember that is the seasoning of life.

Arnulfa Gonzales Vigil

Arnulfa Gonzales Vigil

THE THREE STAGES by Christina Vigil-Thompson

They say there are three stages of dying. The first is when your heart ceases to beat & the last breath is drawn. The second, when the body is lowered to the ground. The third & final death is when there is no one to speak your name. I will fight off her third death as long as I am able.

This obit represents the last page of the last chapter in my grandmother’s life but it’s here in the epilogue that she lives on.

This obit tells you when her life ended. It doesn’t tell you how she lived it or who she was. It doesn’t tell you that when I came home, soaked from getting caught in the rain, she would dunk me in a tub to keep me from getting sick. It won’t tell you that when my brother died, I got home & collapsed in her arms. She sat in a chair, my head in her lap, cradling me until I could breath. It won’t tell you about the estafiate tea she swore would cure you of anything. It won’t tell you about her devotion, her integrity or her love of orange slices & pansies. Or even how she grew roses or only wore Gloria Vanderbilt cologne. It won’t tell you about the night before she died, in a lucid moment when she told me I was beautiful & that she loved me. It won’t tell you that she was my touchstone & that not a day goes by I don’t carry her with me.

She wasn’t the Alzheimer’s that robbed her. She wasn’t the cancer that advanced. She wasn’t the pneumonia. She was my any and everything.

She’s not in the words of her obit or in any pictures I could post. She isn’t any of those things. She is in my every heartbeat & every breath.

I celebrate her life, not by laying flowers on her grave, or wishing her happy birthday on a social media site. I celebrate her by sharing her memories, by saying her name, by never, ever forgetting. She lives on because I will fight her Third Death telling her stories with every word I have. I will not forget. 

Her name is Arnulfa Gonzales Vigil. She is my grandmother

Christina Vigil-Thompson

Christina Vigil-Thompson

Weenies en salsa by Christina Vigil-Thompson

My grandparents were amazing, my grandfather working multiple jobs to make ends meet and my grandmother working miracles to keep everyone fed, clothed and in school.  And it worked.  Some of the things she did to save money were the odd little things she did in the kitchen.

My grandmother was a proud woman, but not too prideful. I remember when she would go to the grocery store and negotiate a lower price on fruits and vegetables just past their freshness date & bones “for the dog”.  We’d go home and she would cut the bruised parts out of the vegetables and boil the bones for soup. Another thing she did was make weenies en salsa, a recipe born of necessity after my grandfather was laid off his primary job. Years later, she was still making it, usually Saturday morning, served with eggs and retried beans.

Weenies en salsa

 

1 package of hot dogs, sliced

Vegetable oil, maybe a tsp

Diced onions, amount depends on how much you like onions

Garlic, (minced, sliced, whatever) to taste

Comino (or cumin for you non-Spanish spice speakers)

Tomato sauce

Optional, jalapeño or serrano pepper

 

My grandmother sliced the hot dogs (she really did call them weenies) diagonally, I guess it’s what I’m used to.  My mom slices them in rounds. Sauté them in a small amount of oil with the onions until the hot dogs are browned and the onions sweat.  You can add the garlic at the end with the comino cumin, if you’re brave enough.  My grandmother always toasted her comino, it just tastes better that way.  Adding it with the garlic for a short time accomplishes the toasting without the extra step.  When the garlic softens, add the tomato sauce.  Opinions differ here – mom likes a thicker sauce, my uncle not so much, so use as much tomato sauce as you like.  Add water to thin it a bit and then simmer, this is where you can add the peppers of choice, add them whole or chop in rounds.  Simmer until the sauce is the consistency you like.

 

Serve with rice, beans and tortillas

 

In the vein of open and honest communication, my mother browns the hot dogs, adds a can of Rotel and then uses comino and garlic to taste and let’s it simmer.  Not as good but works in a pinch.

 

There is always a package of hot dogs in the freezer.  We make it on Saturday morning or after mass on Sundays, sometimes with eggs but not always.  I think of my grandmother stirring the saucepan while this cooked and I wonder what went through her head – resolution, sadness, acceptance, hope or relief knowing that no one would go hungry that day.  So now, during the hard times, and during the good times, making this dish reminds me to be grateful because no matter what, this too shall pass

 

 

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NO DRUMMER JOKES…or you won’t get this recipe

13 Saturday Oct 2012

Posted by recipesofthingspast in Main Dish

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Gene Trautmann, Get well soup

This is the photo that made me politely ask for this recipe:

Labelled the ‘Get Well Soup’, it was given to me by a drummer. Now if anyone knows what is needed to get through exhausting tours, horrible road food, feeling under the weather, lead singer egos and all those awful drummer jokes it is a drummer. This drummer is Gene Trautmann. Gene has drummed for bands such as Queens of the Stone Age, Eagles of Death Metal, and the Miracle Workers. Gene can be found these days in the band Star and Dagger which is composed of Sean Yseult (White Zombie), vocalist Von Hesseling, guitarist Donna She Wolf (Cycle Sluts From Hell), and guitarist (Dave Catching (Eagles Of Death Metal) . Gene appears as the preacher in the following new video:

I met Gene through mutual friends, and at this point should tell some rock moment story. But I won’t. Instead, when I think Gene Trautmann I think hiking book. The first full year I lived in Portland, Gene and our mutual friend came through on tour with Mark Lanegan. It was this dreary December, and it happened to be my birthday. I was a bit homesick wondering what I was doing in the land of endless mist and mold. The two of them took me out to eat, and they had gone to Powell’s bookstore and bought me this amazing book of hikes around Portland. For 7 years, every friend and visitor I had in Portland went on a hike from those pages. The pages bore evidence of  comments on each hike, water stains from being dropped into glacial runoff, wild berry smudges and campfire ashes. One page was even marked with one word: BEAR!!!! If a book can make one appreciate the place where they live, that hiking book was my Northwest Tourism Bureau.

But enough about books and hiking. Let’s talk soup. I have made this soup now twice since getting the recipe and I can attest to it kicking my allergies to the curb.

GENE TRAUTMANN’S GET WELL SOUP

Gene on his soup: I created this recipe as a “Shotgun” approach to getting my flu under control. Some of the ingredients are known to be healers and others are just for flavor. Some might argue that I’m using too many ingredients and flavor is too complex to be good, but I think that getting well is more the key here. My mom used to use the leftover (if there ever is any) and freeze it into ice cubes and use for flavoring sauces and stuff. You can store the cubes in a plastic bag in the freezer.

 RECIPE:

All ingredients should be fresh and organic when possible. Especially the chicken

Ingredients:smile
– 1 Very Large Pot with Lid Pref. Stainless or Ceramic.
– 1 Whole Chicken or Chicken Thighs and Breasts Pack (Whole is best to have giblets for broth flavor)
– 1 Head Parsley
– 1/2 Bunch Cilantro
– 4 Sprigs Fresh Thyme
– 4 Sprigs Fresh Basil
– 2 Bay Leaves
– 4 Large Sprigs Fresh Rosemary
– 1 Peeled Head of Ginger, Sliced lengthwise


– 2 Heads Fresh Garlic, Peeled & Halved
– 2 Sprigs of Lemon Grass (Optional/Asian Markets Carry this)
– 1 Lemon, Juiced & 1 in reserve
– 1 White or Yellow Onion, Peeled & Diced
– 1 Red Onion Peeled and Quartered
– 4 Spring Onions or Bunch of Chives Chopped


– 4 Carrots Chopped


– 2 Celery Stems & Heads Chopped


– 1/2 Tsp Cayenne Pepper
– Lots of Fresh Cracked Black Pepper
– Other seasonings in the cupboard you might have that sound good
– 1 qt. Organic Chicken Broth ( yes this is cheating)


– Olive Oil

Directions:
1. Chop and Prep all Veggies and have on hand to put into the pot. Always start with the Biggest Longest cooking ones and work your way down.
2. Add some Olive Oil to the pot and put on Med. heat.
3. Open up the chicken and pull out the giblets
4. Cut down the chicken into quarters
5. Brown the chicken on all sides to render some fat
6. Reserve Chicken for later.
7. Brown the Giblets and reserve.
8. If Necessary add a little more oil.
9. Add veggies 1 kind at a time, starting with Carrots, Celery, Garlic, Onions, Green Onions etc. Add dry spices.
10. Don’t add the fresh herbs yet.
11. Once the veggies have sautéed and onions are translucent, turn up the heat to high and add giblets and chicken.
12. Now top up the pot with chicken broth and water, leaving room for the boiling action and herbs and lemon.
13. Once Soup Boils, bring down to a slow simmer.
14. Taste and adjust salt & spices.
15. After the soup has simmered for 1 Hr. you can:


a) Remove chicken pieces and pull off the meat, toss the bones and return meat to the broth
b) Add Lemon
c) Add Fresh Herbs
d) Serve


e) If you have the luxury of it, don’t even eat the soup for a day.

Refrigerate and serve tomorrow. It’s twice as delicious!
When re-heating put only what you’ll use in a separate container to heat. This saves time and prevents returning a hot pot to the fridge.

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We do the crime…you eat the cake.

22 Saturday Sep 2012

Posted by recipesofthingspast in Main Dish

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lemon muffins, lemon vanilla bundt cake

What if you knew a crime had been committed? What would you do? Would you turn the person in? What if you knew this crime was nonviolent and would net you something amazing? Well…here is what I did. And since I believe in sharing the reward (and the guilt) I am going to pass it along to you. This is a story of a person I might know; a bakery that person may have worked at; stories of famous people who may have come to this bakery; and secret recipes (lemon bundt cake and lemon muffins) that may have come from that bakery.

(NOTE: no real crime has been committed so everyone settle down. And you can go out and get these secret recipes by paying $30 for this bakery’s recipe book but I am about to dish them out for free. Y’all can thank me and the thief later.)

Before we get to the recipes, let’s put the evidence before you and you can draw your own conclusions.

Exhibit A: This person’s face has been blocked out by my thumb to protect them (who needs Photoshop when you have a thumb?). This person may have worked at said bakery but I cannot confirm or deny this.

Exhibit B:  The below show is based in the city where this bakery is found. And baked goods from this bakery may have been made famous by this show.

Exhibit C:   The bakery’s name may often appear in this magazine as part of celebrity sightings.

Exhibit D: These celebrity sighting stories may have happened in said bakery as reported by the person who may have worked there.

– Adam Sandler dropping a $20 bill in the tip jar after buying only a couple of dollars worth of stuff and being super friendly with the bakery staff.

-Discussing red velvet cupcakes with Steve Earle

-Bjork coming in with her daughter and ordering a raspberry iced tea with her super cute Icelandic accent

-Little Steven Van Zandt dropping $600 in cash when we were raising money to help a homeless neighborhood guy who had been hit by a car and had no money or family to help

-Heath Ledger complimenting me on a tattoo

-Dave Gahan ordering his daughter’s birthday cake from me

-a guy whining on the phone needing a hummingbird cake immediately and not taking no for an answer. He turned out to be David Schwimmer.

Exhibit E: The recipes below could be from said bakery. I can’t vouch for their origin, but I can vouch for their deliciousness. Enjoy and please don’t report me as an accomplice.

Lemon Vanilla Bundt Cake

1. Grease and flour one bundt pan

2. Cream 3 sticks butter (1 1/2 cups) and 3 cups sugar until light and fluffy (about 3 minutes)

3. Add 5 eggs, one at a time

4. Add 3 cups flour with 3/4 cup club soda

5. Add 2 Tbsp vanilla and 1 Tbsp lemon zest

6. Bake at 300 degrees for 1 hour and 10 minutes or until tests done

Note: When cooled, this cake may be dusted with powdered sugar as the bakery might do it. Also a slice of this is excellent with Earl Grey tea.

Lemon Muffins

Ingredients:

– 2 c. butter

– 2 c. sugar

– 8 large eggs-separate into yolks and whites ( you will use both)

– 4 c. flour

– 4 tsp. baking powder

– 1/2 tsp salt

– 1 cup fresh lemon juice

– 2 tsp grated lemon rind

Cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add egg yolks and beat well. Sift flour with baking soda and salt. Add to creamed mixture alternating with the lemon juice and rind. Blend ingredients thoroughly. Beat egg whites until stiff but not dry, and fold into batter. Put batter into muffin tin liners.

Bake at 275 for 25 minutes.

–

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Healing: a story about family, friends and green chile

25 Saturday Aug 2012

Posted by recipesofthingspast in Main Dish

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chile verde recipe, green chile recipe, recipe for what ails you, Scott Cleland, Toni Cleland

There are times when we all need to hear a feel-good story. This week is certainly one of those weeks for me. As the green chile roasters get pulled out in Santa Fe, I am reminded of one of my favorite such stories and the recipe that accompanies it (it uses green chile y’all).

Toni Cleland and I worked together in Oregon. We lost touch after I moved, and then she found me through the world of modern technology. I am grateful for her doing so. While she and I are tied by our similar beliefs and interests, her example as a human being is what I appreciate. And most importantly as a lover of stories, her story that follows is one that inspires me. Hopefully it will do the same for you. What follows is Toni’s story in her own words, and an amazing recipe using green chile to soothe whatever ails you.

Toni Cleland on family, friends and food

Scott (Toni’s husband) was transferring from a desk job at the sheriff’s office to a deputy position. He had to take a pre-employment physical and that’s how they found his tumor – when they did a chest x-ray. The tumor was HUGE, and he hadn’t experienced any symptoms…so his doctor told us that if Scott hadn’t had the x-ray, by the time he DID have symptoms, his cancer probably would not have been treatable. So the decision to switch jobs was life-saving!

So they found he had Hodgkin’s lymphoma. Scott had chemo for about 4 months and radiation for about 3 months. He’s been in remission…let’s see…it’ll be 7 years this October (woohoo!).

When Scott got sick, one of our church friends started a dinner group – that fed us periodically so I had one last thing to deal with while I was working, doing basically all the child care and housework, etc, etc, etc. The meals were so, so appreciated – not only were they far healthier than anything I could have slung together at that time, but they gave us a sense of normalcy and allowed us to have some actual family dinners.

Our Master Chef friend is named Mike Peterson. Mike is a Vietnam veteran and retired vintner (He made wine.). He is also a major community activist, volunteering to help homeless vets. He volunteers at the Eugene family Dining Room several times per month. He also pushed our church into becoming a site for the Egan Warming Center. Named after a homeless vet, Major Thomas Egan, who froze to death one night while sleeping outside, the Egan warming centers open at churches throughout Eugene when the temperature drops below 30 degrees. Our church has some grumpy people who love the idea of Christianity…just not of letting stinky homeless people sleep in the church. Mike stood up and fought HARD to overcome that sentiment, and now the grumpy old people are super proud that we are an Egan Warming Center. Mike is seriously one of the kindest people I’ve ever met – LIVES his faith if you know what I
mean.

Mike cooked for us a few times, but our favorite meal was his chile verde. He personally delivered a complete meal of chile verde, homemade Spanish rice, and tortillas, along with some pre-packed leftovers for the freezer. It was so, so good – Scott’s taste buds were kind of wacky from the chemo (a common side effect), and the spiciness was perfect – spicy enough that he could taste and enjoy it, but not so spicy that the kids wouldn’t eat it.

We liked it so much, and told Mike afterwards…so he, out of the blue, made it for us again once or twice after Scott was well. At the time we were neighbors with Mike, and he just popped over a few times with a meal and a bottle of his own wine. What a wonderful neighbor!

When you’re dealing with a life-threatening illness, there are some blessings that you discover along the way. One of them is an understanding and appreciation of the fact that you are loved – loved and supported by people like Mike. It’s been so long since Scott was sick that sometimes it all seems like a dream – a bad dream, but a dream. But we will never forget our friends like Mike, who rallied when our family needed it the most.

So here is the recipe for Chile Verde. We swore it had healing properties.

CHILE VERDE

– 3 pounds pork, cut up
– 1 large onion
– 4-5 potatoes
– 3 large  7 oz. cans green chiles, diced ( approx 3 cups of fresh roasted green chile diced if you have it)


– garlic granules
– salt
– pepper
– crushed red chiles, pods, and seeds, to taste


– flour (if needed to thicken)

1. Saute onion until transparent, about 2 minutes.

2. Cut pork (de-bone if needed) into large pieces.

3. Dice potatoes medium-large.

4. Add pork (and bones, if any) to stockpot or frying pan.

5.Cook over medium-low heat for 6-9 minutes.

6.Once you have a small amount of juice in the pan, add potatoes and cook until 3/4 done.

7. Add enough flour (mixed into a paste, or roux) to thicken and cook last 1/4 until done.

8. Add chiles (canned of fresh)  to desired consistency and all seasonings.

9.Cook 24-36 minutes longer.

This is great with tortillas or just plain.

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If Noah owned a BBQ joint, the world would stand in line

17 Friday Aug 2012

Posted by recipesofthingspast in Main Dish

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BBQ pork ribs, BBQ ribs, BBQ rub, Noah Rosenstein

This last New Year’s Eve, I had the pleasure of being in Joshua Tree. Our hosts Dave and Hutch have this uncanny knack for bringing folks together. This post is a result of folks colliding at Rancho de la Luna.

One of these folks is Noah Rosenstein. He’s a BBQ savant, and the Texas BBQ snob in me does not say that lightly. After working his magic on a smoker the day before, he presented a plate of brisket that I promise people would fight for. Niceties made all parties eyeing said brisket politely eat a slice one at a time until it was all gone. I was blown away as were the BBQs snobs that surrounded me. After the praise settled down, I wanted to know who this Noah Rosenstein was and how he mastered the art of BBQ. I wanted the story. His reply? “Yeah it doesn’t make sense does it? An east coast Jewish boy with gout cooking some BBQ.”

So sit down and get schooled. Noah knows his BBQ. And he graciously agreed to answer my silly questions, as well as dishing out his BBQ secrets along with photos of a master at work. You’ll find out how he does ribs, and he sneaks in a bonus BBQ recipe as well. Now if that doesn’t make your salivary glands dance, I don’t know if help exists for you.

Let’s talk music, smokers, ribs and oh yeah bacon

Aine: When we are at Joshua tree you joked that “yeah it doesn’t make sense does it? An east coast Jewish boy with gout cooking some BBQ” which is the equivalent of my southern self knowing her way blindfolded around a NYC Jewish deli. Is there a how or why you got into BBQ?

Noah: I’ve always liked grilling. Growing up, I had a natural aptitude for it, and my Dad ceded all outdoor cooking to me at age 16. I’m the guy at your cookout – that’s what we called it growing up in Massachusetts – who will offer to lend a hand cooking, and then never leave your grill.

Pork ribs have always been my favorite. About 5 years ago I decided I wanted to make them my own self. I started by crock-potting, and then finished them on the grill. The results were not satisfying. Crock-potting ribs makes them tender, but because you’re cooking them in water you’re essentially making soup. Much of the flavor is left in the water.

Westcott, the lead singer of the band I am in, The Slighted, had a smoker he’d been given as a gift, but never used. He gave it to me knowing I was having difficulty getting my ribs just so. The first time I used it I lit the side of it on fire: but I rescued the ribs before they went up in the ensuing conflagration. Even slightly burnt, they were better than any I had ever made before. I’ve been working at it ever since. My hope is that my retirement hobby will be competition BBQ.

A couple of years ago I got a Weber bullet smoker, and that’s made my BBQ even better. I would do an unpaid testimonial for Weber if they wanted me to, I like it that much. It’s probably important to note that I don’t keep my smoker at my house. It’s in my friends Ben and Helen’s backyard. There isn’t a good location for it at my apartment, but I love cooking with it so much I must have a smoker. Ben and Helen are nice enough, and enthusiastic enough about BBQ, to let me keep it there.

I even have a smoker I keep at my sister’s house in Massachusetts, so when I’m on my yearly family vacation I can still cook. My friend Ted can attest to that. He slept in the living room of our vacation house with the sliding glass door open while I cooked a brisket overnight. I’m not sure which turned out more mesquite smoked: him, or the brisket.

I cook all sorts of food on my smoker; pulled pork, brisket, chicken, bacon, hot links– but ribs are my favorite.

Aine:  Your style of BBQ–would you consider it your own mix of influences or do you prefer one style over another i.e. Texas and the dry rub or South Carolina or Memphis or….

Noah: My BBQ is a mix. I use a Memphis rub on my ribs, but my brisket is closer to Texas style. Maybe if I had grown up in a region that had a particular way of BBQing I would be more of a purist, but I use whatever recipe sounds tasty.

The BBQ community can be a little strict in their interpretation of what “real” BBQ is. Many BBQ enthusiasts say the definition is only indirect heat, and cooking “slow and low” — i.e., long cooking times at low temps. There’s even debate about the derivation of the word barbecue. I don’t believe in such a strict interpretation. If you want to say you’re BBQing a hamburger that’s fine with me. I’m just glad you’re cooking and enjoying yourself.

Aine: Any stories of great restaurants or eating experiences you want to share?

Noah: I moved to Los Angeles in 1993, and at that point I didn’t have a lot of experience with Southern cooking. There was a traditional BBQ restaurant in my new neighborhood. An older couple owned it, and their daughter worked there too. After I tried their ribs, the daughter came by the table, and asked if I liked the food. I jokingly said, “It was so good I want to hug you”. She said, “Well don’t just sit there then, get up and do it!” I did, and she gave me a long heartfelt hug. That started my love affair with BBQ.

Aine: If I asked you “how you learned to cook”–are you self-taught or is there an influence?

Noah: My friend Carolyn is an amazing chef. I called and asked her lots of questions when I started, and I just got a BBQ sauce recipe from a chef who won a “Best of Memphis” recipe with it, but mostly I’m self-taught. The Internet is a great resource for all things BBQ. I get a lot of my info from:
http://www.amazingribs.com/

http://virtualweberbullet.com/

Aine:  As a musician if you are having friends over and cooking and hanging out what albums are no-brainers to put in the mix?

Noah: If I’m BBQing the sun is usually shining, and I’m happy, so the music I listen to reflects that. Bands like the Growlers, FIDLAR, Ty Segall, The Night Beats, Tyvek, Golden Triangle, and Tijuana Panthers go well with BBQ. I also like to listen to reggae while cooking. The Harder They Come soundtrack is a top-notch selection. I actually saw Jimmy Cliff with my Pops last month, and he said, “It was one of my top 3 all time live events, along with Janis Joplin and Rodney Dangerfield”. We were both pretty blown away. Hmm, I think I just got inspired to try jerk chicken on the smoker.

Aine: That soundtrack is amazing. When I was a teenager, a cousin of mine gave me the movie on VHS with the soundtrack on cassette. That movie made such a huge impression on me. All these years, I have missed seeing Jimmy Cliff and I finally get to see him at a small venue in town this next week. I am so excited.

Noah: The reason I took my pops was he brought me to see the movie in the theater in 1976. I was the completely inappropriate age of 6. I have his copy of the soundtrack on vinyl to this day. We listened to it a lot. I wasn’t exaggerating when I say we were blown away (by Jimmy Cliff’s performance). My 68-year-old dad asked me if I was embarrassed with his loud singing and dancing. There were a couple of times I got chills, but that was from Jimmy, not my Dad. You are in for a real treat.

Aine: So what about this band you are in? Plug away.

Noah: We are called The Slighted. We’re playing our last show in LA on Sept 8, with a couple of other great bands. This will be your last chance to check us out.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Slighted/129068960815

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4QwsjNOGnM

Aine: Finally, may I pry a recipe out of your smoking hands?

Noah: Here’s how I make my ribs:

I go to a local butcher for my ribs, and have him remove the membrane. I can do it if I have to, but he’s the professional, right?

Rinse the ribs with cold water, and pat dry with paper towels. Then coat the ribs with vegetable oil, and apply the rub. I leave them in the refrigerator over night.

The rub:
3/4 cup dark brown sugar
3/4 cup white sugar
1/2 cup paprika
1/4 cup salt
1/4 cup garlic powder
2 tablespoons ground black pepper
2 tablespoons ground ginger powder
2 tablespoons onion powder
2 teaspoons rosemary powder
1 tablespoon ancho chili
1 tablespoon dry mustard

There are 4 elements of a rub:

1. Sweet/salt – the base of all rubs
2. Color – Paprika gives it the deep red
3. Heat – The black pepper and ancho chili are mild, add cayenne if you want it hotter, but be careful, too much will overpower the rub
4. Flavorings – This is where personal taste comes in. I think rosemary is complimentary to pork, so that’s a must for me. Feel free to add anything else, but I think it’s a good idea to only change one ingredient at a time while testing rubs, that way you know what element changed the flavor. The above rub is good for pork, but I use different ones for beef or chicken.

A good rule of thumb on rubs is: 4 parts stage 1, 1-2 parts stage 2, 1 part stage 3, and 1 part stage 4. Mine has more sugar and less heat, but I’m an artist so I don’t need to follow rules exactly.

Some people coat their meat with mustard, but I like oil because some herbs and spices aren’t water soluble, so the oil pulls the flavor into the meat better.

I light my coals in a chimney then use something called the Minion method. I layer the bottom of the smoker with hardwood charcoal and put the hot coals from the chimney on top of them. This way the coals burn down, keeping an even heat, and you don’t have to add coal during cooking.

I put the ribs in the smoker and add a big wood chunk. 20 minutes later I add another. You don’t need to add a lot of wood. I use apple, and pecan. Any wood that is seasonal is good for smoking, but pine and all evergreens are not. I usually put the ribs on the bottom level, and cook sausages or bacon over it. Grease drips onto the ribs, and adds a little bit of flavor, and moisture. To date, I haven’t found any meal that doesn’t improve with bacon.

Keep the heat between 225 and 250. There are 4 vents on my smoker: 1 on top and 3 on the bottom. Always leave the top vent open while cooking, or you can get a creosote taste on your food. I start with all vents open, then close 2 bottom ones when the heat reaches 210. The heat goes up a little more, and then BBQ out. It takes some practice to keep the heat fairly even.

I cook my ribs 4 to 4.5 hours. After about 3.5 hours I put some BBQ sauce on and let them cook awhile longer. Another option I use is to put sauce on them when they’re done, and grill for about 5 minutes a side, just enough to get the sauce to caramelize. A good test to see if ribs are done is to twist one of the bones near the middle of the rack, if it starts to break free of the meat its ready. Tent the ribs under foil when they’re done for 10 minutes, and then cut them, and serve.

BONUS RECIPE

I got this firecracker bacon recipe from my friend Matt. Rub thick slab bacon with a blend of 1/4 cup brown sugar and 1/2 teaspoon cayenne. Put them in the smoker, after 45 minutes turn them over. Cook for another half hour. It’s delish.

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Eating is more than fulfilling the need for food ~Cory Brown

28 Saturday Jul 2012

Posted by recipesofthingspast in Main Dish

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BBQ sauce, Cory Brown, Quita Ortiz

When my previous neighbor told me she was selling her house she announced “I hope some rich retired Texans who like to gamble and play golf buy it.” Fortunately for me that did not happen. Instead I got Cory Brown and Quita Ortiz as neighbors. Believe me they are a lot more interesting than “rich Texas who like to golf and gamble.” Cory is an elementary school teacher, and Quita works for the New Mexico Acequia Association.

The first time they had me over for dinner, Cory smoked some amazing brisket and it was an easy jump to talking to him for the blog. What follows is what came out of a sit down with Quita and Cory as we discuss smokers, food, and BBQ sauce recipes.

Aine: So how did you get into cooking?

Cory: When I was a kid I remember boiling pecans on the gas heater in the bathroom. That’s maybe a step up from making mud pies for a kid. And I have memories of my Dad cooking for us. Then at age 14, I started working in restaurants. First I bused tables, and then I started cooking. I really wanted to go to culinary school when I was young. When I met Quita, she convinced me to get out of the kitchen where I was working hard but not making much and go to college. But I worked in several types of restaurants from Italian fine dining to Pacific Rim cuisine to global cuisine.

Aine: What about the art of BBQ and smoking meat? How did you get into that? Have you traveled and tried different styles?

Cory: Well Quita’s parents gave me their smoker. Well the story goes that they got a smoker maybe as a present. They maybe used it once, and then it just sat unused.

Quita: For Cory’s graduation party from college, we got the smoker from my parents. It started from there. We “borrowed” the smoker for life so to say.

Cory: About a year ago, we got a new smoker. I try to do the same thing every time. I started using mesquite wood, but because it’s not available around here I now use apple wood. I came across using apple wood because some people had cut down an apple tree and were giving the wood away.

I am not a BBQ snob nor am I a connoisseur. I just read. And my sauce I do it differently all the time. I try to write down what I do afterwards but it’s hard to remember exactly because I’ll add a pinch of this and that. But I haven’t really travelled enough to know BBQ. I just do what tastes good to me.

Quita: He’s definitely an experimenter. I appreciate it now but it used to drive me crazy in college. I would just be hungry and want to just throw on a can of soup. But Cory has to make it better. It couldn’t just be a can of soup. He’d have to add this and that to make it better. He’s never satisfied and always trying new things.

Aine: Before we get to the recipe book, do you have any tips or any secrets for smoking meat or BBQing? I have had your brisket, and it was delicious. This is saying a lot coming from a Texas BBQ snob.

Cory:  When I do my dry rub, I prefer it salty. I usually take some brown sugar and mix it with chipotle or cayenne or even green chile. I also ‘inoculate’ the brisket the night before with amber ale. I drain that and then use the dry rub.  You have to get the fire going and keep it at a low heat around 250 degrees. I constantly check on the fire. The whole process usually takes me 8 hours. I usually do 4 hours of smoking the brisket and the last 2-3 hours in a crock pot on low heat..just until the brisket is tender and juicy. Then I make a sauce. I do it differently every time but the recipe I am going to give you is what I used last time and it turned out great.

Cory Brown’s BBQ SAUCE

Ingredients:

one onion

12 oz Amber ale

7-8 tbsp dark brown sugar

one orange

6 garlic cloves, diced

1 tbsp chipotle

1 tbsp mustard

salt, to taste

1. Dice one onion and carmelize in olive oil in skillet

2. De-glaze the pan with 12 oz amber ale. Let simmer.

3. Add 7-8 tbsp dark brown sugar. Let this reduce.

4. Add one orange, diced.

5. Add 6 cloves of garlic diced.

6. Add 1 tbsp chipotle powder.

7. Puree everything in food processor.

8. Add 1 tbsp mustard.

9. Add salt to taste.

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Mama Nannie’s Tomato Dumplings with Sandy and Jana

29 Friday Jun 2012

Posted by recipesofthingspast in Main Dish

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Jana Rayburn, Sandy Gilzow, tomato dumplings

Disclaimer: I have no idea how this blog post will turn out. Sandy Cryer Gilzow is one of my oldest and dearest friends. I have been bugging her for a while to contribute. So when I finally got her cornered this week she was with our high school classmates, Carmen Loving Ogden and Jana Martin Rayburn. Sandy and Jana are cousins, and when they are all together a great time is guaranteed.  While on the phone with them, they were hysterical with laughter so I am not sure I got all the stories straight but here goes.

Sandy and Jana called their grandparents Daddy Buck and Mama Nannie. I suppose every kid called them that whether we were related or not. When I was a kid they lived in this big white house up on a hill in Chester. The house was originally owned by the town doctor. Daddy Buck, Mr. Whitworth, owned a sawmill. Mama Nannie, Mrs. Whitworth, ran a little grocery store. Everyone loved them.

When I asked Sandy to share a family recipe, this is the one that came to mind.  I nor anyone else I have asked has ever heard of anyone anywhere making dumplings like this. What follows are stories from Sandy and Jana about their grandparents and the recipe for TOMATO DUMPLINGs.

Aine: So tell me about this recipe. Where did it come from?

Sandy: Mama Nannie always made dumplings. Chicken and dumplings. Squirrel dumplings but I would never eat those. And these tomato dumplings. She made them as long as I can remember. And she always made homemade fries to go with them. I am sure she made them because they were an easy way to feed all of them and they didn’t cost much to make since there is no meat. You know they had 17 children, but only 14 reached adulthood. But that was a lot of mouths to feed.

Aine: Do y’all have stories about them that you tell your children?

Sandy: Well my favorite is this one about Daddy Buck. You know they didn’t have a lot of money, but Daddy Buck always did what he could for his grandchildren. So one day he comes home with this horse trailer and 14 ponies. One for each family. As a kid I thought I had died and gone to heaven. We were all so excited.  He had just gotten this wild hair and bought them for us.

Aine: Tell me about Mama Nannie.

Sandy: When she had the store, I used to love to go there. She had a three-wheeled bicycle. It had a large basket on the back. I used to love to ride it around.

The other thing I remember is the one Christmas she hung the Christmas tree from the ceiling. Not upside down but right-side up. There was so many of us and so many presents, she had to hang it from the ceiling so all the presents would fit under the tree. I just loved that.

Jana: I remember being at her house and killing the chickens with her. She was tiny and yet she could take a chicken and wring its neck in no time. Blood would be squirting off that chicken, and she just did it like it was nothing.

MAMA NANNIE’S TOMATO DUMPLINGS

Ingredients:

for the liquid to drop the dumplings in:

– 16 oz can tomato juice with 1 can water-if you have fresh tomato juice this is better but canned tomato juice will do in a pinch

– 1 Tbsp salt or to taste

– 3 Tbsp oil

For the dumplings:

– Large bowl of sifted flour

– 3 Tbsp oil

– 1 Tbsp salt

– 1 cup water

Directions:

1. Heat the first 3 ingredients and bring to a boil. You will drop the dumplings in this.

2. For the dumplings, first make a nest in the bowl of flour,

3. Add oil and salt in nest

4. Slowly add a little water and start working in the flour with your hand. Do this until you have used all the water. Keep kneading the dough until it is firm.

5. Pinch off a ball of dough and roll out thin onto a floured table.

6. Cut in strips and drop the strips in the boiling tomato broth one at a time so they won’t stick.

7.  Dunk the dumplings under the juice to cook them. Don’t stir or they will all stick together.

8. Serve with homemade fries.

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Poetry and Sopaipilla Slam with Ariana Maestas

23 Saturday Jun 2012

Posted by recipesofthingspast in Main Dish

≈ 1 Comment

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Ariana Maestas, stuffed sopapillas

Ariana Maestas is a superstar to me. These days I find it hard to be in awe of much of anyone, but Ariana (Ari as she is known to those close to her) is someone I am humbled by constantly. She’s a senior in high school this year, and one of those kids that makes me have hope that kids like her will make this world an ok place.

An activist. A poet. A cook. A traveler. A best friend of her gang of 3 musketeers. A sister. A daughter. Extraordinaire. So when Ari agreed to share her grandmother’s stuffed sopaipilla recipe with me, I got so excited. For we native Texans, sopaipillas are just served with honey. The stuffed sopaipilla is a marvel to me, and a food I discovered only after landing in New Mexico. So here goes…Ari and I talk grandmothers, ceremonial sundancing, food, fragments of memories, and POETRY!!!!!

Aine: Tell me about your grandmother.

Ariana: My grandmother is Manuelita Gonzales and she lives in the East Mountains of Albuquerque.  When we go to Utah to the sundances ever July, everyone calls her “Mamalita.” Everyone knows her even if they don’t know me or my dad.

Aine: Tell me about going to sundance. (Note: Sundance is a religious ceremony performed by Native Americans primarily those from the Plains)

Ariana:  We go every July to Utah. My dad has danced for 7 or 8 years and this year he is going to be a leader. My dad is of Apache descent. I have gone since I was 5 years old, and I have only missed one year. The year I missed I swore I would never miss it again because I regretted missing it.  At the sundance there are the dancers and the supporters. My grandmother and I are supporters. We eat, drink and pray for the dancers. The dance is 4 days long. On tree day we go and get a tree and then there is a huge feast. After this feast at midnight, the dancers stop eating. Then they don’t eat and drink until the 4th day. On the 4th day, they dance during the morning and then we feast again. The dance is not hard to watch until the 3rd day. That is when some of the dancers start to pass out. That is tough to watch.

My grandmother is in her 60s but she knows everyone there. She laughs and jokes with people, and they joke with her and tell her to “stay out of trouble.” But she is always there. The dancers wake up around 5 am and go sweat, and my grandmother is up before them. She is there until the end of the day. She dances strong, and some of the dancers even tell her that she gives them inspiration.

Aine: So what would you say about your grandmother and food?

Ariana: Right now, my grandmother lives alone. But when my dad comes to visit, she makes him all his favorite foods. She makes enchiladas, tortillas and sopaipillas. When I was in 7th or 8th grade, I was taking Spanish class and I had to do a project about food. So I called my grandmother to get her recipe. I made chicken and cheese stuffed sopaipillas and everyone loved them. That’s how I got this recipe.

Aine:  Talk to me about the poem you picked out.

Ariana: This poem I wrote for my poetry class. It’s me. Where I come from and it mentions my grandmother’s sopaipillas which made me think it was perfect for this.

At this point Ariana gives me her poem to read. I read it, and getting misty eyed when I read the lines that reference Katrina. Ariana lived in New Orleans until Hurricane Katrina. I tell her how much her poem moves me.

Ariana:  Thank you. I was 10 years old when I came to New Mexico. Some people say I was too young to remember, but I remember everything. Sometimes I remember things too well. It’s funny what you remember right? I remember we were in this hotel in Tallahassee, Florida. The hotel had fresh-baked cookies 24/7. Every time you went in the lobby, there was a plate of cookies. So you fast forward to maybe last year in Santa Fe, and my friends and I got to stay in a hotel. My friend’s mom went into to pay for the room. She came back out with cookies. The hotel in Santa Fe had cookies. She asked me if I wanted some. I just couldn’t eat them. Everything from what happened came back to me. It’s strange how that happens. Sometimes I remember things that are so random. I remember we were leaving New Orleans. My mom told me to pack so I got a suitcase and I grabbed all these weird things. Pictures off the wall. Weird things that I thought were important. My mom saw what I had packed and said “you don’t need to pack all that. We are only going to be gone a few days.” So my suitcase got emptied of those things. So we don’t have those things now. But that’s in the poem. Where I come from.

I come from…

I come from,

the mixed taste of emotions

brought up sorrow and left out anger

I come from the sound of my baby sister crying and my little brother laughing

I come from the sight of water rising and the culture being washed away

while my mother waits up at night wondering if we’ll be able to go home

I come from the culture of my past and the thought of my future

My mind screams trauma but my future screams success

I come from the smiles of children and the fright of adults

I come from the smell of my grandmas sopapillas

I come from different cultures and mixed emotions

Stuffed Sopaipillas

Ingredients:

4 cups flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1-2 teaspoon salt

1 CAP full vegetable oil (about 1 tablespoon)

Stuffing of your choice such as: boiled, shredded chicken, cheese, green chile, calabacitas, ground or shredded beef, beans

Directions:

1.  Add the first 4 ingredients and mix

2. Slowly add warm water until dough is formed

3. Roll dough around. Divide dough into 12 balls of dough.

4. Roll out one ball of dough into a circle of good thickness—“not too thick but not too thin”

5. Cut circle into 4 triangles ( cut across the circle as if you were cutting a pizza)

6. Deep fry the triangle n hot oil.

7. Once dough starts to puff and gets slightly brown, flip it over and let the other side fry until it is slightly browned.

8. Remove from oil. Let cool slightly and then cut a slit and put in stuffing of your choice. I like to put in chicken that is shredded and cheese and then put it in the oven for a few minutes to warm and melt the cheese.

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Buffalo Girls’ Meatballs

19 Saturday May 2012

Posted by recipesofthingspast in Main Dish

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Amy Davis, Buffalo girls meatballs, healthy meatballs

Sometimes when you don’t have a tradition of recipes and cooking, you have to start one yourself. Noone is a better example of that than Amy Davis. But she’s been blazing a trail of individualism for awhile now. Amy has many gigs. Musician. Film producer (her husband is filmmaker Jon Moritsugu). Fashionista. Artist. Cook. And today she’s gonna let us in on what she calls her best recipe ever. A recipe she invented, but of course I would expect no less. And if you are so inclined you can check out more of her trailblazing projects at: www.amydavis.com

Buffalo Girls’ Meatballs

Aine:  So cooking, how did you learn?

Amy:   I learned by trial and lotsa lotsa errors. I had no cooks in my family. I was raised on fast food and serious chemical crap. I had liver spots by age 27. Now I am all semi-healthy and organic and feeling groovy.

I have ruined recipes like Texas red chile. I made scratch broth and scratch spice mix. At the last minute I felt this twinge of MEAT GUILT so I added a big OLE MESS of BROCCOLI. I ruined it and we had to order crap pizza.  I learned that night…veggies on the side and to have NO MEAT GUILT.

Aine:  One of my favorite things is sitting in a kitchen while someone cooks and listening to them tell stories. Is there a story you would tell if you were cooking?

Amy:  I would tell you of my dad, jazz great Mel Davis. He opened a jazz club in Port Washington. At 15, I became a bus girl and was introduced to yummy continental cuisine. It was a step up from all the fast food I was weaned on. Plus they let me experiement with the deep fryer where I force fed the kitchen crew and band members my mock scallops…deep fried potatoes dipped in flour, then egg, then bread crumbs ala chicken cutlets. Damn good.

Aine:  Any tips on making your meatballs?

Amy:  Remember to stir them every 30 minutes.

Bufffalo Girls’ Meatballs

1 pound ground buffalo

1 egg

1/4 cup water

1/4 cup hemp hearts (NOTE: Hemp hearts can be found at health food stores. They are an excellent source of protein and also contain plant sterols which are known to lower cholesterol)

1/4 cup amaranth flour (NOTE: Amaranth Flour can be found at health food stores. It is a gluten free flour that is recommended for people with celiac disease or those on a gluten-free diet)

1/2 tsp salt

1 tsp oregano

1/2 tsp garlic powder

1/4 cup raw pumpkin sees ground to powder in a coffee grinder

1  14oz container of POMI tomatoes chopped

 

1  14oz container strained  POMI tomatoes-low sodium no salt added

1. Put all your tomatoes in a large Le Crueset or large pot.

2. Add 1/2 tsp salt

3. Bring tomatoes to a simmer.

4. In a big bowl add all the other ingredients EXCEPT egg and water.

5. Mix ingrediants with your hands in bowl.

6. Add egg and water.

7. Shape into golf ball sized balls.

8. Gently add meatballs to simmering tomato sauce.

9. Cover and simmer for 3 hours. Stir every 30 minutes.

I took the meatballs and made myself a meatball sub sandwich using a crust loaf of French bread. Was worth the wait!

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Sweet and Sour Meatloaf aka how a lady at Mockingbird Bridal saved me time and time again

19 Saturday May 2012

Posted by recipesofthingspast in Main Dish

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

lois owens, meatloaf, sweet and sour meatloaf

Most recipes of comfort food come from families. Not this one. And I will warn you this post is all about the story and the food. Unfortunately I have no photos of the woman who shared this recipe with me. She lives only through my stories and the recipe cards she gave me.

When I was in school in Dallas, for two years I worked three part-time jobs just to get by. One of these jobs was at Mockingbird Bridal in Dallas. Those of you who know me may think this is the biggest joke ever, as I am the most unlikely candidate to care about weddings, dresses or ceremonies. Nevertheless, there I was at this bridal boutique two doors down from the infamous Campisis restaurant. The lady who ran the shop was a sharp business woman who had carved out her slice of Dallas real estate and had done well catering to brides. The sales ladies were grandmotherly types for the most part with names like Miss Lillian, and Ms Jeannie. But my favorite was Miss Lois.

Lois Owens was the first face that smiled at you when you entered. She explained how the shop operated and got girls started on their quest for the perfect dress. She could charm the shrewdest mother and calm the craziest Bridezilla. To me, she was a surrogate grandparent of sorts. When I had just a peanut butter and jelly sandwich for food, she would magically have extra food for me and another girl who was in about the same economic situation I was. I would always decline, and she would force some buttermilk pie on me or her extra helpings of meatloaf. When my car was on the blink and I had no ride home, she would give me a ride. And sometimes I could return the favor to her by giving her a ride if her car was in the shop. She always asked me about school, and how I was doing. When the daily grind was tough, she would tell me to hang in there. She never pried. She was just there.

One day at work, she and I were talking about buttermilk pies and chess pies. I mentioned how her meatloaf was the best I had ever eaten. She humbly smiled and said thanks. A few days later she slipped recipe cards into my hand as I walked out the back door to catch a ride home. That is how I became privy to her cooking secrets.

Her meatloaf? Amazing…well I could use some trite adjectives but you should just make it and taste for yourself.  (and I will save the buttermilk pie recipe for later). After I graduated, I lost touch with the ladies at the bridal shop. I tried once or twice to track them down to no avail. So this is all the evidence I have. Her meatloaf has been my go-to comfort food ever since then. I make it with homemade mac-n-cheese and homemade bread. It will do you right. It saved me many a time. Hope it will do the same for you.

Sweet and Sour Meatloaf

Lois Owens

Ingredients:

1 1/2 lbs ground beef

1 cup bread crumbs

1 tsp salt

1 can (15 oz) tomato sauce

1 tsp onion flakes

2 T brown sugar

2 T vinegar

1/2 cup white sugar

2 tsp mustard

1. Heat oven 350 degrees

2. Mix ground beef, bread crumbs, salt, pepper, onion flakes and half of tomato sauce in a large bowl.

3. Form into a loaf and put in a pan. (I always put mine in my 1970s era Corning ware. This is comfort food after all!)

4. Bake at 350 degrees for 50 minutes.

5. Mix remaining half of tomato sauce, brown sugar, vinegar, sugar and mustard in a small bowl.

6. After meatloaf has baked for 50 minutes, pour the above over the meat loaf.

7. Bake an additional 10 minutes.

Note: This also makes a mean meatloaf sandwich. Slice when done and put on some crusty French bread with sliced mozzarella cheese

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